Venice in the autumn

9th Feb 2012 by Page & Moy

Page & Moy writer Victoria Atkinson braves the prison cells at the Doge's Palace, watches a masterly demonstration of glass-blowing and even spots a few locals on an autumn trip to Venice.

Venice is at its atmospheric best in autumn. But Italy is a summer destination, surely? Sun, ice-cream, late balmy nights… Of course, Italy is wonderful in the summer months but in the autumn an elegance seems to ripple over the city as it bustles gently and even the locals – yes, they do exist – can be found enjoying the cafés. The morning mists are atmospheric, the late afternoon sun is all the more welcome and early evenings in St Mark’s Square are calm yet spirited as string quartets respond to gentle applause.

What’s more, Venice outside the peak summer months apparently means no queues so if seeing all the main sights is high on your list, the timing couldn’t be better. I strolled into the ticket office at the Doge's Palace and straight out into a serenely calm courtyard.

The imposing and spectacular façade of the building is continued inside and the architecture of the inner courtyard is exquisite. The grand stone staircases lead to room upon room of magnificent grandeur and it’s easy to wish yourself back all those years to experience life in this captivating palace - until you step inside the prison cells, that is.

The intense and heady atmosphere of the cells is undeniable and after spiralling my way through the dark, dank corridors and crossing the Bridge of Sighs twice I was forced to make a swift exit, so oppressive was the atmosphere. I was very glad it was the 21st century and not a few hundred years before. No wonder Casanova made a run for it: the cells are a spine-chilling place.

Bursting into the bright light of St Mark’s Square, I decided to join the short line of people shuffling into the cathedral – all keen to catch a glimpse of, or seek solace in, the Basilica of San Marco. As I filed through the basilica I couldn’t help but feel humbled by the expanse and elaborateness of the church - the gold-leafed and frescoed dome of the church is simply beautiful.

No trip to Venice is complete without a trip to the Byzantine masterpiece that is the Piazza San Marco. Many an hour can be passed simply standing around gawping at the people, pigeons, street-sellers, boutiques and restaurants that line the rectangular piazza. This is a people-watchers dream - I even saw a wedding! Alas the aromas wafting from the cafés would have to wait as I wasn’t yet done with my Venetian investigation.

Next up was the Rialto Bridge. After walking around in circles for the best part of an hour I decided to pay attention to the signs (had someone just put them there?) and swiftly found my way to the Grand Canal. A glimpse to the right and there it was. A true symbol of Venice, the Rialto Bridge is recognised the world over. After browsing in the shops which line the bridge and wandering through the maze of streets on the other side, I made my way back to the main square – aided by the trail of breadcrumbs I had left on my outbound journey. Some say meandering through narrow streets and getting lost is the perfect way to experience the real Venice; I would be inclined to agree.

And so with an hour or so to kill and the sun high in the sky, I decided to hop in the lift to the top of St Mark’s Campanile. The views were perfect, stretching beyond the lagoon and out over the city in every direction, with mile upon mile of red-tiled roofs, church steeples and domes and not a modern structure in sight. How many places in the world could you see that? After standing for over 1,000 years, the tower crumbled while undergoing restoration work and the structure we see today is an exact replica built in 1912. Many Venetians were dubious as to whether the square needed a tower and some thought it looked better without it. I was pretty glad it was there - it was a real highlight of my trip.


If you decide to venture further afield there are plenty of options. Top of my list was a trip to the islands of Murano and Burano, both just a short boat ride from the pontoon on the Grand Canal, and you can easily visit both in a morning. Within 20 minutes we were whisked off the open-top boat – bracing to say the least but well worth wrapping up for – and into the cosy heat of a glass furnace. We were treated to a mesmerising glass-blowing demonstration where the ‘master’ – the name given to the most experienced artist – swiftly created an intricate vase and a stallion ornament. Photography is restricted in some areas and visitors are keenly chaperoned - a nod to the secrecy that has long surrounded the Murano glass manufacturers.

The island of Burano is famed for its lace, although nowadays just a handful of local women still practise the art and much of the lace on sale in the shops is imported. Burano is a colourful affair, with each house painted in a different colour to represent the family that lives there. Aside from its picturesque virtues, perhaps the main attraction of the island for today’s visitors is the easy, hospitable vibe that hums through the streets. In the summer months I can imagine this would be a popular retreat from the heat and hustle of Venice.


Venice is a treat at any time although having now experienced both its summer and autumn guises I’m quite certain that when I return it’ll be in autumn. It’s just as enchanting, the days are crisp and clear, and without the crowds the true beauty of Venice is laid bare for all to see.

I stayed aboard Croisi Europe’s MS Michelangelo. Recently refurbished, the ship is modern and inviting. The crew were excellent and very attentive; nothing was too much trouble. Cabins are the standard of a good hotel room and all have panoramic windows. All meals were served on the ship, made extra special by the fantastic skills of the French chef – we dined like kings! The ship features on the Page & Moy tour Venetian Charm & the River Po.